Rather than attempting to stifle your puppy's chewing tendencies, Puppy's desire to chew should be constructively channeled and directed towards acceptable items such as his chew toys.
Avoid giving your puppy articles of clothing such as old socks or shoes, discarded sneakers, towels or other old household articles.
While some puppies may learn to differentiate between these things which are his and those which are yours, most puppies cannot.
When it comes to choosing which toys to give your puppy, here are a few pointers to look for.
First and foremost is safety. Only allow puppy those toys and balls which can not be chewed apart or accidentally swallowed. Tennis balls are out because of the fur on the ball this can get stuck in the puppy's throat and cause quite a cough, much like kennel cough.
Also, beware of small object such as bells, buttons or squeakers from squeak toys, which may be hazardous if chewed off of a toy and swallowed.
Make the chew toy fun. If it s not, your puppy won't want to play with it. Make sure the toy is also easy to clean. After all, who wants to spend all of their time cleaning chew toys?
Good chew toys should also last a long time. Make sure they are Durable
Another good tip is to purchase two or more of the same toy, that way if puppy starts to destroy the toy, you can replace it with the new one before he completely destroy it, this also will confuse him and he will stop trying to destroy it, now he thinks he cannot do it.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
Crate Training
Crate training puppy may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations. If you have a new puppy.
A crate is an indispensable tool for house training, as well as keeping your belongings and your puppy safe while you are gone.It is a good idea to start crate training your puppy right away.
Crate training is the process of teaching your puppy to go into its crate on command, and to accept the crate as a familiar and safe location.
Dogs are den-dwelling animals and advocates claim that a crate can become a den substitute। Those who advocate the use of crates believe that crate-training benefits both the dog and owner. Crate training is used widely in North America but is also used in Europe, Australia and elsewhere.
Benefits To Crate Training Puppy
1.House Training
A crate can be used as a big advantage to house training puppy. By instinct, most dogs do not want to defecate or pee in their den. The crate is intended to be a substitute for a den.
A puppy may be kept in a crate except during feeding time or during supervised play time. When allowed to exit the crate, the puppy is taken to a soiling area to poop or urinate.
A crate should be large enough for a puppy to be able to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. The length should be about 1.5 times the length of the animal.
If there is too much space, the puppy might use the unoccupied end for wastes. If an owner doesn't want to buy multiple crates as the puppy grows, it's possible to block off one end of a larger crate, or to buy a crate with removable dividers.
The puppy's potty breaks must be frequent enough to avoid accidents since puppies have a difficult time controlling urination and defecation.
Control gets better as the puppy gets older. Even an adult dog, when ill or affected by certain medications, can end up soiling the crate, making the dog uncomfortable both physically and mentally, if the owner isn't vigilant and aware of the dog's needs.
Toys and soft bedding material in the crate make it more comfortable for your puppy.
Always provide water for your puppy anytime he is in the crate. Spill proof bowls or bowls that attach to the kennel gate work best.
A crate should not be used as a prison.Trainers advise that the crate only be closed when the owner is home. Crate training is not the same as confinement for extended periods.
No dog should ever be confined to a crate beyond its ability to control its bodily functions.
A crate should always be a pleasurable experience for a puppy. It may also be convenient for the owner.
2. Away from Home
Many veterinary clinics and hospitals keep dogs in crates when the dog must stay for observation or care. A dog who understands the concept of a crate may be less stressed during medical care and may be easier for the staff to handle. Some kennels also use crates. Another good reason for crate training.
3.Traveling by Air
When your puppy travels on an airline, he must be enclosed in an approved crate. Because travel is stressful for the dog, crate proponents claim that a crate-trained dog finds this experience less stressful than a dog who has not been crate trained. Molded plastic crates are suitable for this purpose.
4.Traveling by Vehicle
An unrestrained dog traveling in a car can create hazards for itself or its human companions by distracting the driver, leaping from the car or attacking passersby.
Dogs also should be restrained for the safety of the driver and the dog. A crate that is securely strapped into the car provides an easy method to contain the dog that still allows the dog to move comfortably during travel, although dog car harnesses and seat belts are also available.
TrainingCrate training usually involves rewarding a dog for entering the crate and for remaining there, using the crate as part of a play session, feeding the dog in the crate, allowing the dog to explore and use the crate until it is no longer intimidating.
Some Suggested Rules
Confinement to a crate should not be used as punishment.
Introduction to a crate should be gradual and accompanied by rewards.
A dog should not be placed in a crate unless it has relieved itself.
On release from a crate, a dog should immediately be taken outside. A visibly stressed dog should not be crated.
Types of Crates and Variations
Solid plastic crates are usually more suitable than other types for secure travel, such as in an airplane. They might also be safer in a car accident than other types.
Disadvantages are that they take up a lot of space and do not fold for storage.
Aluminium crates can be either fixed or folding. A few of their advantages are: light weight, very strong when constructed with appropriate bracing, will not rust, excellent airflow & vision for the dog, appealing looks compared to wire crates.
Aluminium crates are suitable for use at veterinary hospitals, car travel, as a permanent "den" for your dog inside the home and in breeding kennel environments.
Wire crates usually can be folded for storage or transport, although it might be difficult to do and they are fairly heavy for their size.
They provide more airflow for the dog and provide people with a clearer view inside and they range in size. Such crates are often used in car travel, at veterinary hospitals, and at kennels. There are a variety of covers and pads available to make crates safe and more comfortable.
Wire crates are also popular at dog shows; they allow the dog to be clearly seen by spectators, and the sashes, rosettes and ribbons won can be hung on the crate for display.
Soft crates can always be easily folded for storage or transport and are lightweight. They provide the dog with a stronger sense of security but still allow visibility and airflow. They cannot be used with dogs who are likely to dig or chew at the crate, and they are not suitable for transporting dogs in any type of vehicle.
A crate is an indispensable tool for house training, as well as keeping your belongings and your puppy safe while you are gone.It is a good idea to start crate training your puppy right away.
Crate training is the process of teaching your puppy to go into its crate on command, and to accept the crate as a familiar and safe location.
Dogs are den-dwelling animals and advocates claim that a crate can become a den substitute। Those who advocate the use of crates believe that crate-training benefits both the dog and owner. Crate training is used widely in North America but is also used in Europe, Australia and elsewhere.
Benefits To Crate Training Puppy
1.House Training
A crate can be used as a big advantage to house training puppy. By instinct, most dogs do not want to defecate or pee in their den. The crate is intended to be a substitute for a den.
A puppy may be kept in a crate except during feeding time or during supervised play time. When allowed to exit the crate, the puppy is taken to a soiling area to poop or urinate.
A crate should be large enough for a puppy to be able to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. The length should be about 1.5 times the length of the animal.
If there is too much space, the puppy might use the unoccupied end for wastes. If an owner doesn't want to buy multiple crates as the puppy grows, it's possible to block off one end of a larger crate, or to buy a crate with removable dividers.
The puppy's potty breaks must be frequent enough to avoid accidents since puppies have a difficult time controlling urination and defecation.
Control gets better as the puppy gets older. Even an adult dog, when ill or affected by certain medications, can end up soiling the crate, making the dog uncomfortable both physically and mentally, if the owner isn't vigilant and aware of the dog's needs.
Toys and soft bedding material in the crate make it more comfortable for your puppy.
Always provide water for your puppy anytime he is in the crate. Spill proof bowls or bowls that attach to the kennel gate work best.
A crate should not be used as a prison.Trainers advise that the crate only be closed when the owner is home. Crate training is not the same as confinement for extended periods.
No dog should ever be confined to a crate beyond its ability to control its bodily functions.
A crate should always be a pleasurable experience for a puppy. It may also be convenient for the owner.
2. Away from Home
Many veterinary clinics and hospitals keep dogs in crates when the dog must stay for observation or care. A dog who understands the concept of a crate may be less stressed during medical care and may be easier for the staff to handle. Some kennels also use crates. Another good reason for crate training.
3.Traveling by Air
When your puppy travels on an airline, he must be enclosed in an approved crate. Because travel is stressful for the dog, crate proponents claim that a crate-trained dog finds this experience less stressful than a dog who has not been crate trained. Molded plastic crates are suitable for this purpose.
4.Traveling by Vehicle
An unrestrained dog traveling in a car can create hazards for itself or its human companions by distracting the driver, leaping from the car or attacking passersby.
Dogs also should be restrained for the safety of the driver and the dog. A crate that is securely strapped into the car provides an easy method to contain the dog that still allows the dog to move comfortably during travel, although dog car harnesses and seat belts are also available.
TrainingCrate training usually involves rewarding a dog for entering the crate and for remaining there, using the crate as part of a play session, feeding the dog in the crate, allowing the dog to explore and use the crate until it is no longer intimidating.
Some Suggested Rules
Confinement to a crate should not be used as punishment.
Introduction to a crate should be gradual and accompanied by rewards.
A dog should not be placed in a crate unless it has relieved itself.
On release from a crate, a dog should immediately be taken outside. A visibly stressed dog should not be crated.
Types of Crates and Variations
Solid plastic crates are usually more suitable than other types for secure travel, such as in an airplane. They might also be safer in a car accident than other types.
Disadvantages are that they take up a lot of space and do not fold for storage.
Aluminium crates can be either fixed or folding. A few of their advantages are: light weight, very strong when constructed with appropriate bracing, will not rust, excellent airflow & vision for the dog, appealing looks compared to wire crates.
Aluminium crates are suitable for use at veterinary hospitals, car travel, as a permanent "den" for your dog inside the home and in breeding kennel environments.
Wire crates usually can be folded for storage or transport, although it might be difficult to do and they are fairly heavy for their size.
They provide more airflow for the dog and provide people with a clearer view inside and they range in size. Such crates are often used in car travel, at veterinary hospitals, and at kennels. There are a variety of covers and pads available to make crates safe and more comfortable.
Wire crates are also popular at dog shows; they allow the dog to be clearly seen by spectators, and the sashes, rosettes and ribbons won can be hung on the crate for display.
Soft crates can always be easily folded for storage or transport and are lightweight. They provide the dog with a stronger sense of security but still allow visibility and airflow. They cannot be used with dogs who are likely to dig or chew at the crate, and they are not suitable for transporting dogs in any type of vehicle.
Training Your Puppy
Congratulations on your new puppy. (Your newest family member)
Remember training your puppy starts as soon as puppy comes home.
Puppy training basics start during the first week the puppy is home is critical.
You need certain physical items for you puppy right away, such as a dog bed or crate, (see crate training) food and water bowls, puppy chow, collar, leash, toys, etc.
Also important, is that all family members should decide and agree upon a daily routine, such as responsibility and rules.
This is very important. So be prepared for the many training opportunities that will arise..
Remember the first few days are extremely important for training your puppy.
Begin puppy training as soon as you bring your new puppy home - don't wait for bad habits to set in!
Always put puppy in a crate or small confined area when you can't be watching him/her.
Set up a small room to be his very own special place for the next couple of months. Paper the entire floor and put his food/water bowls and bed in one corner. Scatter his toys everywhere.
Always put puppy in a crate or small confined area when you can't be watching him/her.
Set up a small room to be his very own special place for the next couple of months. Paper the entire floor and put his food/water bowls and bed in one corner. Scatter his toys everywhere.
Remember make the crate a "happy place" Toys, blankets and treats work wonders.
Take puppy out every two hours for potty breaks - and ALWAYS after eating, sleeping and excited play.
Always give lots of praise for toileting on cue and in the right place.
Puppy proof your house - keep tempting and dangerous items out of reach and out of sight.
Always correct bad behaviour at the moment it's happening.
Use a guttural or growl tone and a loud clap of the hands to correct.
Always praise puppy as soon as he/she stops.
Remember to end every training session on a positive note - make it lots of FUN!
Puppies also need lots of sleep. When puppy is sleeping leave him be.
When playing with your puppy do so quietly and gently.
NEVER- Use hands for punishment - hitting, grabbing, dragging and forcing the puppy down creates fearful submission or aggressive retaliation.
Never- Assume that he'll "grow out" of bad behaviour - it's your job to teach him right from wrong.
Never- Encourage behaviour in a puppy that you don't want to see in an adult dog - eg. biting hands, jumping up.
Never- Use your dog's name in a hostile tone - his name should be a positive.
Never- Reprimand after the fact - if you see evidence, but have missed the bad behaviour - it's too late!
Never- Give your puppy free run of the house - until he knows the rules he will do whatever suits him.
Never- Let your puppy off leash unless the environment is entirely safe and secured.
Never- Leave children in charge of a puppy - adult supervision is imperative.
Never- Rub puppy's nose in his pee or poop - it's very traumatizing to the pup and makes NO sense at all.
Never- Give in to your puppy's demands - Remember if puppy wins, puppy rules!
Remember to end every training session on a positive note - make it lots of FUN!
Puppies also need lots of sleep. When puppy is sleeping leave him be.
When playing with your puppy do so quietly and gently.
NEVER- Use hands for punishment - hitting, grabbing, dragging and forcing the puppy down creates fearful submission or aggressive retaliation.
Never- Assume that he'll "grow out" of bad behaviour - it's your job to teach him right from wrong.
Never- Encourage behaviour in a puppy that you don't want to see in an adult dog - eg. biting hands, jumping up.
Never- Use your dog's name in a hostile tone - his name should be a positive.
Never- Reprimand after the fact - if you see evidence, but have missed the bad behaviour - it's too late!
Never- Give your puppy free run of the house - until he knows the rules he will do whatever suits him.
Never- Let your puppy off leash unless the environment is entirely safe and secured.
Never- Leave children in charge of a puppy - adult supervision is imperative.
Never- Rub puppy's nose in his pee or poop - it's very traumatizing to the pup and makes NO sense at all.
Never- Give in to your puppy's demands - Remember if puppy wins, puppy rules!
Read More On House Training Puppy Here
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